Mount Makalu Expedition

Mt. Makalu is 8,481 meters carrying the title of the 5th highest mountain in the world specific it's a technical climbing peak; it's more technical than climbing Mt. Everest. Makalu Expedition is not a huge mountaineering challenge, it's in the North East of Nepal. We fly from Kathmandu to Tumglingtar in the East and then we have got about a three and half hour rickety drive to the start of the trekking expedition. Makalu Trek Expedition is hence considered quite technical. remote and challenging. Our route does transverse first climbing all the way to Nghe Kharka, crossing the Barun Khola flowing from Makalu. The route to Makalu Base Camp (4823m) involves a sustained period at altitude with some steep slopes, but rewards with powerful views of Makalu (8481m) to the north. This is the realm of the glaciers, surrounded by the unforgettable presence of the world's mightiest mountains; and brooding above the towering bulk of Everest itself.

For Mt Makalu Expedition 2023. Normally, we set up four camps in the approach excluding ABC at 5,700m. Following the lateral moraine and hiking onto the glacier, we plan to set up camp I at a glacial plateau at 6,150m further proceeding in the direction of the glacier plateau towards Makalu Pass, climbing stretches of steep slopes and arriving at the base of the Makalu Pass to set up the camp II at 7,000m. We climb the Messner Headwall towards the northwest Ridge at Makalu La and the site of Camp III at 7,300m. Camp IV will be set up on the North Ridge at 7,850m and finally leap for the summit at 8,462m.

Successful ascent of Mt Makalu

Mt. Makalu Himalayas is the fifth highest peak in the world with a height of 8,481m(27,825ft.), and an exceptionally beautiful peak situated between Mt. Everest and Mt. Kanchenjunga at an altitude of 8463 meters (27766 feet). Along with Annapurna I, the French claim to climb Mt. Makalu along with American and New Zealanders had explored before them. A French reconnaissance party headed by Jean Franco visited Mt. Makalu in 1954, returning a year later with a powerful expedition consisting of the best guides Alpinist France could muster; among them Jean Couzy, Lionel Terray, Guido Magnone, and Serge Coupe. They were ably supported by a doctor, geologists, 23 Sherpas, and an army of 315 porters.

The Mt. Makalu expedition process to Camp 5 on the Makalu La proved technically very difficult and required a large amount of fixed rope. From there, they were able to traverse easy slopes on the north side. Steep couloirs led to the knife-edge ridge leading to the summit, first reached on 15th May 1955 by Couzy and Terry. All eight Frenchmen and one Sherpa reached the summit.

This outstandingly successful Mt. Malaku expedition was a combination of a strong, well-organized, and highly motivated team aided by the finest equipment and blessed with good weather providing ideal climbing conditions. This latter factor is critical to success on 8000m mountains.

Mt. Makalu Departure dates

Early September.

Mt Makalu Cost

Around 12,000 USD per person.